Personal preference.

Some people find the GMail Basic html version a good alternative to the new look:  https://mail.google.com/mail/h/

Personally, I use one of the solid-color themes which works really well to turn down the blinding white and make the new look more tolerable.

Well, it has been 44 minutes since your last reply.

Sorry, I have a life.  I don't spend my day waiting for people to reply to threads.

...how do I cancel/close my account?

I realize looking in help can be complex for some people.  But for closing accounts go to:  Settings -> Accounts and Import -> Google Account settings [click the link] -> My Products Edit [click the link] -> Remove Gmail permanently.
For more information see:  http://mail.google.com/support/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=8152